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Materials: Cream silk chiffon, cream
silk satin, embroidered ecru net lace, pink silk ribbon rosebuds, silver
sequins, beads and bugle beads. Lining: cream silk twill, ivory silk
taffeta, 11 stays, brass hooks and eyes, large steel hooks stamped
"Nichols", silk mousseline, bobbin lace, silk ribbon.
Provenance: Tea Gown belonged to
Gertrude B.Whittemore, b. Aug 31, 1874; d. Apr 9, 1941. GBW came from a
prominent and wealthy Middlebury, Connecticut family. Extensive family
documentation written by her great grandnephew, Robert N. Whittemore,
will be made available with the sale of this tea gown.
Label: Petersham missing. Because of the
superlative quality of materials and construction, I believe this gown
came from a early 20th century couture house, possible French; other
gowns belonging to GBW had French labels.
Condition: Good for display or
collection/study purpose. On a dress form, this gown appears to be near
perfect. Damaged areas: The worst problem is large light brown stains
under the arms (hidden by the sleeves and lace bodice ruffle); the short
mousseline under sleeves are shattered (these could be remade - chiffon
and lace outer sleeves in good condition); the interior bust-enhancing
taffeta ruffles have shattered near the underarm area (easily removed);
there are 4 very small, under 1/8", holes in the skirt's chiffon
and two small gray smudges in the back of the skirt. With some careful
repairs I feel this gown could be put into excellent condition. The
chiffon, satin, lace and trims are in excellent condition as is the
entire silk twill lining.
Measurements: B, 33"; W, 26";
Front L, 57"; Back L, 65"; Hem C, 256".
Comments: This trained tea gown captures
the Belle Epoche feminine ideal in all her fragile and romantic
splendor. The lace used to trim the gown is a hand embroidered copy of
18th century French Alencon lace. Garlands of silk rosebuds cascade down
the side of the bodice and are clustered on the sleeves at the inside of
the elbow area. Looking at this gown one is reminded of both the
opulence and innocence of the wealthy at the beginning of the 20th
century.
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