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Materials: Cream silk net, cream bobbin insertion lace, cream
Mechlin lace flounce, pale mint green silk velvet, four round cut steel
and diamante buckles, silk embroidery floss, silk chenille floss,
sterling silver sequins, dark pink, pale pink, lavender and cream silk
chiffon fuchsia blossoms with silver or gold lame centers and bead
stamens, millinery wire, silver and gold glass beads. Lining: blush silk
taffeta, silk mousseline de soie, pale green chiffon, 15 stays, brass
hooks and eyes, metal snaps.
Provenance: Tea Gown belonged to
Alice Faye Otis. Alice Faye was born in 1858 to a prominent Boston
family. In 1884 she wed Dr. Walter Otis. Dr. Otis took his bride to
Vienna, Austria where he set up his practice in psychiatry. The Otis'
entertained lavishly and traveled often between Boston and Vienna. Alice
Faye Otis died in 1909 at age 51.
Label: Petersham woven cream
silk, "L. Ungar K.U.K. Hoflieferant
Wein".
Condition: Excellent. Underarm
areas have slight discoloration but are in excellent condition, with no
holes or fabric rotting. All of the elaborate embroidery, beading and
lace are in wonderful condition. Silver sequins have tarnished, as
sterling will do. Gown has had museum quality restoration to give it
longevity. I had the original lining removed as it was made from
weighted silk and had disintegrated. A conservator meticulously and
exactly reproduced the original lining with new silk taffeta, using the
1906 boning, hooks, eyes and snaps. As in the original, most seams are
hand finished. Silk net becomes fragile over time. The conservator hand
backed the entire skirt's original silk net with a similar gauge new
silk net. The old silk net has several tears and weak spots; the new net
backing has stabilized these problems and made them nearly invisible.
There are two light brown stains on the gown; one quarter sized on the
bodice and the other dime sized at the top front of the skirt. Although
not obvious, the chiffon is worn around the millinery wire on many of
the three dimensional fuchsia blossoms.
Measurements: Sh-Sh, 15"; B,
34.5"; W, 28.5";
Front L, 60"; Back L, 82"; Hem C, 163".
Comments: This trained tea gown
captures the Belle Epoche feminine ideal in all her romantic splendor.
The bottom of the skirt and the train is made from a beautiful lace
flounce 25" deep in some places. It is edged at the bottom of the hem
with pale green silk velvet. Garlands of fuchsia blossoms cascade down
the front of the bodice and artfully decorate the gown's skirt and
train. Some fuchsias are two dimensional; they were embroidered onto the
gown in pink silk floss, silver sequins and gold or silver beads. Other
fuchsias are three dimensional. These were made from chiffon and lame
blossoms that dangle off the intricately embroidered chenille leaves and
vines. The Viennese couture house of Ungar had very high standards of
quality and workmanship, as can be seen in this breathtaking tea gown.
Museum quality.
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